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Iron Quit Cold?

The cord might be open or the heating element burned out.   Here's how you can spot the offender immediately
 
Because it is used often, and then for periods up to several hours, the common clothes pressing iron is bound to need technical attention fairly early in its life. When an iron quits cold one day, resist the temptation to disassemble it.   Always check the cord first.   This carries a lot of current,  is  often damaged by  the sharp edges of the iron itself, and can readily go "open" or short circuit.   The latter condition almost always blows the branch fuse, but sometimes it is only a partial short circuit and merely makes the cord get hot. After eliminating the cord as the source of trouble, then tackle the iron itself. Construction varies from make to make, but any iron can be opened after careful study of its nuts and bolts. See the accompanying picture sequence for ideas and suggestions.  ·

Above: To check cord for internal short circuits (which usually occur near plug), set Handitester for "LO OHMS," connect test leads to line plug, wiggle cord.   A   short   circuit   will   make   needle   flicker.
 
Above right: If cord is not short circuited, test for continuity of wire by inserting pair of tweezers. If plug contains switch, make sure it's on. Needle will bang over to zero ohms if the cord is all right.

Right: After removing handle from iron, as shown in the first illustration, take off the adjustable heat control knob. It is usually held by single small screw. Remove screw and lift off knob as shown.

Below, right: A large hex nut over heat control shaft holds the body of iron to the base. It may be removed easily with arc joint pliers or a wrench. The   next   step   is   to   check   the   hex   nut   itself.

Below: The stud on which heat control knob fits is frequently "splined" to a short vertical shaft. Don't twist it, but lift straight up. A drop of penetrating  oil  here  will help loosen  the  joint.

Hex nut turns out to be a deep, hollow threaded stud. Clean threads with a wire brush but don't oil. Now the plated cover of iron may be removed.

Plated cover lifts off to reveal heavy cast iron sub-base, held by two more nuts. The next step in disassembling iron is to take off the sub-base.

Socket wrench is needed to remove sub-base nuts. Drop of penetrating oil on each helps loosen corrosion. Don't hit connector plugs with wrench bar.
 
Sub-base lifts off easily and heating plate now comes into view. The threaded studs are anchored in the bottom plate or sole and will not come out.

 

Heating element comes off complete. Fingers are grasping control shaft of thermostat heat control which is the next item to be removed from the iron.
 
Thermostat is held by two short connecting wires fastened to screws. Loosen latter as shown and thermostat drops out through a hole in the center.

 

Thermostat (right) is separate unit. Note short tabs of wire sticking up in center hole. These are part of the heating element wires, which are clamped between two halves of boat-shaped form.
 
Before halves of heating form can be separated, it is necessary to dismount end prongs. This is a simple nut and bolt job. Observe placement of insulating washers and terminals of heating wires.

With connector prongs removed, top half of heating element can now be pushed to left, exposing wires inside. Some pieces of mica will come loose. The element consists of flat wire ribbon on mica form.

If wire is burned out. install a replacement element Arrange mica above and below wires to prevent grounding and test with Handitester to make sure ribbon is not in contact with metal sandwich.

Toasters Should Pop

When they don't, a collection of crumbs may be the trouble. But if cleaning doesn't help, you can repair most toasters with a  screwdriver and  pliers

Unlike irons, broilers, and similar heat-appliances found in the kitchen, a bread toaster is used only for short periods perhaps once a day. Its wire heating element therefore enjoys a long life and rarely needs to be replaced. "Rarely" does not mean "never." With millions of toasters in active service, hardware and electrical shops find it profitable to stock replacement elements.

Most  of the  troubles  that develop with toasters are mechanical rather than electrical. Crumbs accumulating inside can readily jam up the release mechanism, the control switch, the wire guides that hold the bread in place, etc. If the family is fond of raisin bread, the toaster needs frequent cleaning. Raisins that fall out of the bread are baked by the heat to the hardness of pebbles, and may have to be pried out. Some toasters have clean-out traps in the bottom. These should be opened once every couple of weeks. Toasters without such traps can merely be turned upside down and shaken vigorously.

Below, look the whole two-slice toaster over for screw heads. The only one visible topside is a small one on the color-control knob. Remove and pull of! knob. Right, molded end piece is fixed to the bottom of the toaster frame. After the screws have been taken out. it can be lifted off.

Sooner or later, it may be necessary to take a toaster apart, at least partially, to release a jammed mechanism, repair the connecting cord, replace the element, etc. Construction varies with make and price, but generally is rather simple. A screwdriver and a pair of pliers are the only tools needed for the job.

The accompanying photos show disassembly operations for two toasters: a new two-slicer and a single-slicer 25 years old. The latter is cleaned frequently, has needed only one of its two heating elements replaced in all that time, and continues to make perfectly good toast. The general procedures illustrated in the pictures can be applied to practically all toasters.

This is the front of the toaster with the molded end piece removed. The small lever that moves the bread-holder down is now in view. Ii it doesn't work freely, it probably should be scraped lightly.

Point where cord enters case needs frequent inspection. Here insulation is apt to wear through.

To get at end of cord, remove molded piece. It can be lifted off in same manner as front member.

With toaster upside down, reinforce cord where it passes through molded piece, with layer of tape.
 
Opened trap door on bottom of toaster is sure to release a shower of crumbs. Clean out with brush.

The wire guides of bread holders must move freely. With small screwdriver or knife scrape off all hardened  accumulations  of crumbs,  raisins,  etc.

Older single-slice toaster is less streamlined than the new model and of simpler construction. The top  is  held  with  screws—comes  off  in  a  jiffy.

Vertical sides are held to bottom plate by twisted end lugs. A quarter turn with pliers straightens them out and permits side pieces to be withdrawn.

Sides and back of toaster peel off like an orange skin. It isn't necessary to remove front because mechanism connected to push levers is now in view.

Aluminum pan on bottom of toaster catches crumbs. Occasionally it needs a thorough scraping. Check and tighten the connections between cord, heating grid.

The wire guides fit loosely and come out easily. After removing from toaster, clean off the wires with back of knife blade or a fine emery cloth.

Heating element is held by spring clips in bottom of toaster and has no loose wires. To remove, grasp top edge with pliers and pull straight up.

Breaks in flat ribbon wire of heating element can sometimes be repaired with a patent resistance-wire   cement  but   if   element   is   old.   replace  it.
 
Wire on some heating elements cannot be seen too well because of mica covering. Breaks can be located quickly with Handitester set at LO OHMS.

Popping action of toasters depends on a strong coiled spring. Here it is on the bottom of frame. Notches (just to left of points of pliers)   permit   adjustment.

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